Zimbabwe continues to offer a superb safari experience…

Over the last couple of months we have been very fortunate to run two privately guided safaris, predominantly in Zimbabwe, for some of our long-standing guests who have supported us since the inception of Ngoko.

Having planned both itineraries over a year ago, we did make some minor adjustments in light of the election uncertainty, but most of the arrangements went ahead as planned. Our adventures took us to Rhino Island Safari Camp in Matusadona National Park, the private Classic Africa Tented Camp in Mana Pools National Park, Somalisa Camp and Little Makalolo in Hwange National Park and Linyanti Bush Camp in the Chobe Enclave, Botswana. Rather than give a detailed report, I’ll instead hand over to one of our guests, Barbara Kipper, for a few of her stories…

Lions Fighting: Spectacular morning. Came upon two gorgeous male lions and a sleek female. The males were edgy, most likely because they were outsiders and the pride males could have appeared suddenly and challenged them. The female was snarling at them. She was near the water - cornered – with the males at the top of the hill looking regal. The males kept sniffing the spots she'd been, savouring the aroma and doing the lion version of testosterone males, baring their teeth in a grimace. They then came down to the water to drink, bonded again by rubbing up against each other then parted…and surrounded the female, having had enough of her coyness. One of them would have dominated her and mated with her - rape in the wild. She fought back and ran but it was quite a snarling fight. Unbelievable!



Getting the message across...

Late Night: Last night we got stuck in sand whilst down by the river. Then the vehicle rescuing us got stuck. Was fascinated watching logs being put in sandy grooves, then a log chopped to get it out of the way (my idea) and then leafy brush put under the wheels which was successful. After that we stayed out looking for aardvarks until midnight. This morning the bush was dead and so was I so we decided to head back to camp. On the way back there was a tremendous baboon hullabaloo and we found a partial pride of lions with the young very sleek females trying to get the baboons. Wonderful light. So much for being tired. Returned to camp at the regular time!

Elephant Encounters: Our third day at Somalisa was amazing for elephants. The high point was mid-morning when a large matriarchal herd came to the bore hole and we parked near a large tree and a fallen log. Once the ellies had finished drinking they moved slowly towards us, always checking scent. Eventually a large female was in front of the truck about four feet from us; she rested her trunk on the log and proceeded to doze off. Her itsy baby curled up under her and went to sleep! To have huge animals that relaxed in your presence was astonishing.



When a Crocodile Eats the Sun

More Elephant Encounters: The morning before we walked with elephants. Benson had me out of the truck and quietly bobbing and weaving around a herd. We walked around the lead male and crossed a little valley and watched the herd feed. There must have been about thirty picking their way towards the water. Every once in awhile the breeze would change and an elephant would raise its head and trunk and catch our scent but they remained unimpressed - could be the combined smell of 100 percent Deet and suntan lotion!

What continues to amaze me is how you can be staring at an elephant as it walks past and not hear it. This is especially true as it goes dark and silent shapes move past you on the way to and from water.



Seen enough ellies yet? (Image supplied courtesy of Barbara)

Up a Termite Mound: We're at Little Makalolo and it's perfect. Yesterday we watched ellies from the hide. Today I set off with Benson and the wonderful camp manager Charles who found us a huge male rhino with a perfect horn. Out of the truck we popped and started into the thicket. He never knew we were there. Benson and Charles hoisted me up a high termite mound and we watched the magnificent animal. First it posed beautifully. Then it lay down and went to sleep. Some other guests joined us on the mound and watched the rhino sleep. They left. Eventually the others left and we stayed. On dozed the rhino until he finally got up, grazed, moved off, and went to sleep again.

Working our way back to camp a large herd of buffalo were heading to a water hole. Benson, Charles and I took up a crouching position in a dry water trough and watched them pour down the hill to the water hole. Fabulous!

Bath Time...